26 Jul Moving NorthWest
Nestled into a quiet corner of the Bay of Islands in Vanua Balavu. We had Starr with two stern ties and two bow anchors holding her firm, she wasn’t going anywhere, and honestly, neither were we. The spot was perfect. Protected, peaceful, and beautiful, surrounded by the dramatic limestone formations where the tiny trees growing out of the lava rock looked like Japanese bonsai.
It was only after a few slow mornings and long afternoons that it finally hit us—Good Grief! We’d been there for nearly ten days!. Time had slipped by quietly, while we were having fun and exploring.
But, eventually the call to move on returned and we headed westward toward Viani Bay just across from Taveuni. Taveuni is said to be home to some of the best diving on the planet. (Look up Rainbow Reef and the White Wall if you want your jaw to drop – https://www.diveplanit.com/dive-site/great-white-wall.)
We do most of our navigating using satellite imagery on Open CPN
The passage from Vanua Balavu to Viani Bay is around 80 nautical miles, almost dead downwind. We decided to leave in slightly punchier weather than usual, but with the breeze behind us and Starr in her element, it felt like the right call.
As most of you know we have a rowing machine aboard. But there’s something wild and wonderful about rowing while the boat is surfing waves.
As you slide back and pull, you start to feel like you’re moving Starr herself—rowing to keep her on course, rowing to push her just a bit faster down each wave. Your body responds to the boat’s movement instinctively—leaning, bracing, working with her instead of against her.
It turns into this strange game: trying to time your strokes with the sea, throwing your weight around like it matters (even though you know the engine is doing the heavy lifting). You start sweating. You start laughing. You forget you’re even working out until you step off with legs like jelly and realize you’ve rowed through a good chunk of the passage.
Starr on Rails
I’ve now been aboard Starr for about seven or eight months. In that time, I’ve had the opportunity to really dive deep into her systems, everything from maintenance and power management to how she moves through the water. There’s always something new to learn when you’re living aboard a yacht of this caliber. But one thing I keep coming back to, again and again, is just how incredibly well Starr steers when underway.
In my relatively short, but pretty diverse career working on boats, I’ve had the chance to run a wide range of vessels: trawlers, monohulls, catamarans, sportfishing boats… you name it. Each one is its own beast. Different designs, propulsion methods, handling characteristics, layouts, everything varies. But there’s one trait they’ve all shared in my experience: they struggle to track a straight line in a following sea, especially when under autopilot.
Usually, when you’re in swell and watching a rudder indicator, you’ll see the autopilot working hard to compensate, five to ten degrees one way as the boat crests a wave, then back to center, then swinging five to ten the other direction. It’s a constant dance, and one I came to accept as normal.
Until Starr.
This boat tracks straighter than anything I’ve ever been on, period. In a following sea with 2–3 meter ocean swell, her rudder adjustments can be measured in micrometers rather than inches. When a big wave catches the stern, the autopilot might make a correction of one or two degrees, max. It’s barely noticeable, and it happens with such smooth precision that you hardly feel the boat working at all.
What that means in practice is huge: the autopilot, steering pumps, and hydraulic rams aren’t constantly overworking to stay on course. Instead, everything moves with minimal effort—extending the life of critical gear, saving power, and making for a far smoother ride.
A big part of this performance comes down to Starr’s unique steering setup—twin rudders. There’s an excellent write-up on this on MVStarr.com. In short, the rudders are perfectly balanced and spaced to offer exceptional control, even in confused seas. Unlike a single-rudder boat (which is often fighting against prop wash and asymmetrical loads), Starr’s twin rudders work together to keep her on track with almost no drama.
The result is something you truly feel at the helm. Or rather, don’t feel. No constant wheel twitching. No nervous anticipation every time a swell builds behind you. Just solid, predictable tracking, even in the kinds of seas that would normally keep you glued to the nav screen.
I’ve learned a lot since coming aboard Starr, but this might be the thing that’s left the biggest impression: when a boat is truly dialed in, when the design, balance, and systems are all aligned you don’t have to fight her. You just guide her, and she takes care of the rest.
Patrick Connor
Co-Captain with Don













Chris Clothier
Posted at 00:59h, 27 JulyPatrick, so good to hear your appreciation for mighty MVStarr. And to see that adventures you all are having in a part of the world few will every see.
So good to see that photo’s and what you all are up to.
Chris Clothier
Anne McDonald
Posted at 02:59h, 27 JulyHi Don
Anne from Vancouver
I didn’t have any idea of what Sharry and you were doing when you travelled. My goodness you had to be absolute scientists. I have really enjoyed your blogs. It sounds like an exciting novel.! Thanks so much for including me. I can’t wait for the next chapter!!
Hugs
Anne
Douglas Easton
Posted at 04:40h, 27 JulyHI Don
We are so envious – the blue clear water and exotic reef formations are just what we need to see to cheer us up.
It’s pretty grey, wet and cold down here in Auckland. Please bring some of this beauty back to us when you head our way.
Your photographs are gorgeous.
We look forward to welcoming you and your crew to Auckland later in the year.
Kindest regards
Doug & Marlene
Evolution
Donna
Posted at 08:30h, 27 JulyThat anchorage looks amazing!
Yasuko
Posted at 09:11h, 27 JulyThank you for sharing your love letter to Starr with us! I visited the link to Great White Wall and it is like a great big flower garden in May.
I hope it is untouched by warming of the sea temperature. In travel fantasies , I read travelers could be enchanted and could forget time and why they are traveling , then they stay there forever. The 10 may have been a magic number. Bon voyage.
Andy Howard
Posted at 14:43h, 27 JulyThanks Don and crew for a great update on your adventure. I knew Don had Starr in tip top shape but it’s good to hear how well she handles. The scenery is awesome. Many thanks for the report and here’s hoping the rest of the journey is equally fantastic.
Craig Wilson
Posted at 15:33h, 27 JulyI’m so jealous but I shouldn’t be. We are sitting anchored in the Inside Passage in a secluded cove. Wildlife abundant. Fresh salmon for dinner. But I’m, because the adventure your on is life changing. Your post inspirer me to think bigger.
Milt Baker
Posted at 16:25h, 27 JulyDelighted to see that the great ship Starr continues adding to her cruising legacy by visiting some of the world’s most storied destinations.
As someone who has traveled aboard Starr in more than a few memorable cruising locations, I still remember how astounded I was the first time Don turned her helm over to me on the ICW near Fort Lauderdale’s Bahia Mar Marina, and asked me to do a 360-degree low-speed turn just to get a feel for the boat’s responsiveness. Those twin rudders brought her about in a manner I’d never before experienced. She is one hell of a boat, and twin rudders like hers are a great (and very much overlooked) option for single-screw offshore cruising vessels.
Love reading about. Starr’s latest adventures.
Fair winds and following sea!
Milt & Judy Baker
Peter Oleson
Posted at 16:47h, 27 JulyWhat great adventure! There are many “paradises” in this world and I suspect that you will visit them all. Good on you. Peter
Jim Yares
Posted at 19:49h, 27 JulyPropspeed on the prop? Have you found a better anti-foul treatment for the prop? That stuff is crazy expensive. We put it on during the last haulout but it is long gone.
Great meeting you all in the Bay of Islands.
–Jim http://www.sailroam.com
Luuk Oleson
Posted at 19:54h, 27 JulyAnother great report. on your amazing adventure. Thank you for sharing. Loved reading how well Starr is behaving, and about your “rowing” experience:). What an incredible trip for all of you.
Michone Walker
Posted at 13:42h, 28 JulyThank you for the update date! Always love the photos and stories. The coral reef looks amazing! Nice to hear there haven’t been any weather issues.
John & Gidget Ruscetta
Posted at 19:22h, 28 JulyThanks for the update. Great pictures!
M L Connor McCall
Posted at 16:22h, 17 AugustPatrick, So glad to see you again (!although not in the flesh)