It’s Time to Say Goodbye!

25 Aug It’s Time to Say Goodbye!

The gifts of a prolonged navigation of Fiji are many, beautiful, and deep in meaning.  As we prepare to end this phase of our voyage and go on to explore The Marianas and Japan, I can’t help but choke up as I reflect on our stay in these beautiful islands.  I am ambivalent, ready to go on, yet sad to leave where I have had so many wonderful experiences.

We have covered over 1,875 nautical miles during our four month stay.  On Starr we have crisscrossed this archipelago of over 300 islands, cognizant that we can’t see them all, yet focusing on the highlights of a land already full of marvels.

You can see where we Liked go Sometimes More Than Once!

In the last few weeks we said goodbye to Sonja, our amazing Washington state friend that for weeks plied us with superb food, rich deserts, and warm company.  She left Starr at the island of Taveuni, the same day that Rick and Maria Lucia, sailing and hiking friends from Hawaii who just finished a sailing trip from Hawaii to Mexico, Panama, and back, joined the crew.

Sonja’s Farewell – Goodbye deserts!

In Viani Bay we snorkeled and dove the famous Rainbow reef and did a couple of lovely hikes over the island’s ridgeline.  We also enjoyed local hospitality at a “Lovo” dinner where pork, chicken, and vegetables, were cooked underground and then served in a most pleasant setting under an elegant thatched roof dining room.

                                                                                             Rick and Maria Lucia

Its like walking through a colorful english garden!

A taste of the many coral we have seen (Laura will post a more in depth post about coral)

A good NW wind pushed us on our way for a 160 NM run to Fulaga. Each of the islands we have visited has ranked high on our list of best ever yet Fulaga, with its enclosed placid emerald waters, its eroded conical islets, and its white sand beaches is a definite 10 out of 10.

Rick – You could see down in the crystal water 50ft

One of many Mushroom islands in Fulaga

Many old sailor friends were already there, so we invited them, and every other sailor in the anchorage, for a sunset deck party that filled up Starr’s ample top deck.

Plenty of room for more!

There are sailors from all parts of the world

The local village extended its hospitality too, inviting all the sailors to a fundraiser at their community center. There we were welcomed with a display of local songs and dances, as well as traditional foods and the all-significant Kava drinking ceremony.

Click above for a short video of the fundraiser – 54 Seconds

Our next destination was the island of Kandavu, a 175 NM run due west that was favored by wind and wave.

Great coral, lots of anchorages and multiples villages

Upon arrival we observed the traditional protocol of Sevu Sevu which is a courtesy call on the chief of the village to announce our presence, request his welcoming us in his waters, and present him with the traditional gift of Kava root.

Sevu Sevu ceremony with the headman and his kids as seen with our gift of kava on the floor in front of them

As is Starr’s custom of giving back to the communities it visits, Don and Patrick offered their mechanical and electrical skills to help in any way possible.  At this village and at later at others, a torrent of inoperable generators, outboard engines, home appliances, and more flowed from the houses onto the work area where Don and Patrick helped them all.

Generator has not run for 3 or 4 years, chinese wiring diagram was impossible to understand

Working on one of many chainsaws

Up and running and sounds pretty good!

Another two-day sea journey took us from Kandavu to popular Port Denarau where Starr refueled and provisioned, while the crew was able to enjoy local restaurants and refreshments, at the modern and festive area by the marina.

From there it was a beautiful and short trip to Musket Cove where Starr’s travels through Fiji began four months ago.  Dozens of sailboats are in the anchorage, their many crew are ashore or active in the bay, foiling, sailing dinghies, going to and fro.  Giving it all a most festive atmosphere.  As I have said earlier , it will be hard to leave.

Let the party begin – More boats still coming! (Download Noforeignland app and you can pinpoint boats, who they are and where in the world they came from! “No weekend warriors, all charter boats and all bluewater Sailors”)

Written by Don & Rick

Related posts:

1082nm from Los Cabos, 09d 55.00 N, 122d 54.00 W – Friday, 23nd March, 2001 Mainland Coast of Mexico: Puerto Vallerta to Barra de Navidad – December 17, 2000-January 18, 2001 Seattle to Mexico – November, 2000 Seattle, Washington – September, 2000