Equator to Saipan & On

05 Oct Equator to Saipan & On

Starr’s Equatorial Crossing Point – From our illustrious Crew member Mark Logan – Captain of Puanani (Pretty Flower) – Beneteau Oceanis 393 – Marks personal boat he has owned for 22 years.

                                                                                                          Starr Equatorial Crossing Point

En route from Fiji to Saipan, M/V Starr crossed one of the most storied lines on the globe, the Equator. For sailors, this isn’t just a geographic milestone; it’s a rite of passage. Two of our crew, Lisa and Bo, began the leg as humble “Polliwogs” and emerged as proud “Shellbacks.” As tradition demands, a ceremony was held to honor their crossing and transformation. Being the only Shellback aboard, I was informed it was my honor, duty, and downright obligation to serve as King Neptune’s emissary for the occasion. I gladly accepted, fulfilling my royal duties with appropriate solemnity and, of course, a healthy dose of good-natured hazing.

                                        Starr Equatorial Crossing Ceremony with Bo, Lisa and Neptune’s emissary Mark.

As part of the ceremony, each new Shellback was required to compose an “Equatorial Crossing Haiku,” written entirely without AI assistance. Both accepted the challenge and produced fine tributes to the sea:

Lisa
Pollywogs no more
To old Neptune we have sworn
Shellbacks to adore

Bo
At the equator
King Neptune claims a shellback
Pollywog no longer

                                                  Starr approaches the channel between Saipan and Tinian on the evening of October 2, 2025

We made landfall in Saipan on the evening of October 2nd, 2025, after 13¼ days and 2,700 nautical miles since departing Port Denarau, Fiji. The passage was smooth, steady, and filled with all the rhythms that make long ocean crossings so memorable. We fished from dawn to dusk on ten of those days and were rewarded with exactly one catch, a small short-billed swordfish, released after triggering flashbacks from a less than fond prior encounter with the species. Our luck may have been poor, but our spirits remain high. The tackle is being reviewed, local knowledge gathered, and hope renewed for better fortunes on the leg to Japan. If not, Seppuku!

        The only fish caught in the 2676.15 NM between Fiji and Saipan (A Small marlin we did not want)

Life aboard during the crossing was rich with simple pleasures. Evenings were spent gathered in the wheelhouse over superb meals crafted by our rotating “Chefs du Jour,” Lisa, Don, and Patrick, each adding their own flair to Starr’s well-appointed galley. I’m still waiting for Bo to take a turn, as those familiar with his eclectic cooking know he’s more than capable of impressing. Between meals, we passed time listening to an audiobook on World War II in the South Pacific, a gripping narrative of the very waters we sailed. As we crossed near Taratupa, the Coral Sea, Guadalcanal, and the Northern Marianas, the book’s accounts of fierce battles and unimaginable bravery resonated deeply. To travel peacefully through seas once filled with warships was humbling beyond words.

Our arrival in Saipan was brisk but busy. After checking in with local authorities, we topped up with 2,860 gallons of fuel, a reminder of just how different Starr’s appetite is from the modest 35 gallon tank of my little sailboat back home. Then came provisioning, restocking everything consumed on the passage and ensuring our galley remains well armed against mutiny by hunger. We found everything we needed in Garapan, though one can’t help but notice the omnipresent “Joeten” name, a family that appears to own nearly every storefront in town.

                                                                        The Starr crew standing in-front of the lavish yet abandoned hotel/casino

Saipan itself offered a mix of fascination and melancholy. A grand hotel and casino, once poised for opulence, now stands abandoned, a casualty of the pandemic. Many other businesses remain shuttered, silent reminders of how hard COVID struck these islands. Yet history and beauty endure. Rusted WWII tanks, artillery pieces, and cave fortifications whisper of the island’s fierce past, while lush hills and azure bays remind visitors why Saipan remains such a captivating place.

                                                                                      Rusted remains of a WW II tank and artillery piece.

With preparations complete and weather windows aligning, we now turn our eyes north. The next passage, Saipan to Japan, awaits. Here we come, Aburatsu! (Which, for the record, is nowhere near Miyazaki.)

Showing on the map where our port of entry will be in Japan

Related posts:

1082nm from Los Cabos, 09d 55.00 N, 122d 54.00 W – Friday, 23nd March, 2001 Mainland Coast of Mexico: Puerto Vallerta to Barra de Navidad – December 17, 2000-January 18, 2001 Seattle to Mexico – November, 2000 Seattle, Washington – September, 2000