Back on board

29 Mar Back on board

                                                     (Above a photo of Starr and Capaz together in the Sea of Japan 2023)

I was with Sharry the night she passed in peace.

The next thing I did was to take the redeye flight to Seattle so I could give my family a hug.

After a few days in Seattle I needed a breather, so I flew to Hiroshima and boarded Starr.  Rob and Kathleen had just arrived the day before and were ready to crise the Seto inland Sea.

Kathleen is a Palliative Care Doctor and gave much needed support to me with almost daily contact with me in Sharry’s final weeks at our condo home in Waikiki.

Rob and Kathleen had been in Japan for 3 years and in 2023 they were preparing to make the jump to Attu on the Aleutians.

We met in Hinomiyama, a small town in the NW Sea of Japan.

It was fun to meet with fellow CCA members from Bainbridge Island.

Rob joined Starr on this year’s (2025) Hawaii to Fiji passage.  It is comforting to have an experienced Pacific sailor and an ER doctor to boot!

Rob and Kathleen did the 2023 passage on their 50’ sloop Capaz to the Aleutians and wintered in Kodiak.

Capaz is now moored in Cordova, AK.

This next section is by Rob and Kathleen Hurlow

                                                                       Rob and Kathleen Hurlow – Capaz in the sea of Japan

SETO SEA

We joined the boat in Hiroshima and Don arrived a few days behind us. We looked forward to exploring some of the islands in the Seto Sea. First stop was Miyajima with its tamed deer, many temples and the famous Grand Torii Gate that appears to float on the sea at high tide. There we had a challenging hike up 1,900 feet to a temple at the top of Mount Misen. The picnic lunch and expansive views of surrounding islands were a nice reward.

                                                                                                  Rob and Kathleen at the top!

                                                                                   Rob and Kathleen at 1900ft on Miyajima

                                                                           Rob and Kathleen with the Tori gate behind them

The town is lively and we enjoyed walking around, seeing more sights and eating in a local restaurant.

Then it was on to Omishima and the quiet town of Miyara. It was peak time for the orange harvest as the trees were loaded with ripe fruit. We ate our fill.

There are extensive bike trails all over the island and we were able to bike the other side, eat a Japanese style hamburger and bike back in the afternoon.

Other activities included more hiking and visiting the local temple. Most late afternoons found us soaking in the onsen which was only a 5 minute bike ride away.

SHIKOKU ISLAND ROAD TRIP

We rented a car in nearby Imabari.

Don joined us as we set off on a five-day road trip through the mountainous regions of Shikoku Island. Our journey took us first to the Asan mountain range and then on to the Iya Valley, where we spent our days hiking, walking, and taking in the local sights.

The timing couldn’t have been better — the cherry blossoms were just beginning to bloom at the start of the trip and were in full bloom by the end.

                                                                                                   Cherry trees in full Blossom

                                                                            Cherry Blossoms up close

We stayed at two different ryokans, both lovely, and experienced firsthand the warmth of Japanese hospitality, known as omotenashi. The food was exceptional throughout: kaiseki meals are as beautiful as they are delicious, though finishing one is no small feat.

Both ryokans featured wonderful onsens that we soaked in every afternoon. The outdoor onsen at Hotel Kazurabashi was particularly stunning — rocky pools surrounded by gardens with spectacular views, reached by a funicular ride up the hillside.

Other highlights and observations:

∙       Donning a yukata (casual kimono), provided to all guests for wearing around the ryokan, to the onsen, and in the dining room, is a lovely signal that it’s time to relax.

∙       Getting lost turned out to be a fortunate detour when a homeowner whose yard we’d accidentally parked in came to our rescue.

Note by Don.  Katheens 3 years of Japanese lessons saved our bacon more than once!

∙       We stumbled upon a hidden gem of a restaurant — more like the host’s living room — where we were served handmade soba noodles and the best tempura we’ve ever tasted. Our host rounded out the meal by singing a traditional Japanese folk song; we later learned she has won many awards for her voice.

                                                                      Note her many trophies for her singing achievements

∙       Highway 44 is no highway. It is a treacherous, narrow, winding road climbing a steep canyon — barely wide enough for one small car, with no guardrails in sight.

All in all it was a wonderful boat trip and a successful road trip. Fantastic memories. We are grateful to Don for his company and ongoing friendship.

                                                                                           Sayonara, Sad to see you go!

P.S Half way into our trip, we got this wonderful photo of my new “granddaughter” Layla!, 6 months old and happy as a clam in papa Sam’s mama Anna’s Nordhavn Akeeva’s pilot seat.

Related posts:

1082nm from Los Cabos, 09d 55.00 N, 122d 54.00 W – Friday, 23nd March, 2001 Mainland Coast of Mexico: Puerto Vallerta to Barra de Navidad – December 17, 2000-January 18, 2001 Seattle to Mexico – November, 2000 Seattle, Washington – September, 2000